Backpacking Alaska with our College Seniors 2011

 Kenai Mountains Overlooking Upper Russian Lake

"You guys know this trip is very intense and challenging, right?"  "Yeah, and we are ready", replied Lee Cadden, "we are all in good shape and ready to tackle Alaska."
     Cadden called me last February looking for something different for his group of guys graduating college.  They all agreed that the typical 'senior' beach trip paled in comparison to exploring the wilds of Alaska together.  After numerous conversations and several talks about the challenges and difficulties, they signed up and arrived on May 10th.
     Early May in Alaska offers the whole gambit of weather and temperatures.  We backpacking Alaska this time of year!  Near sea level it is spring and warm, but climb a few thousand feet and it is still winter without the extreme temps and diminished sunlight.  It makes for an amazingly, diverse trip!!

Hiking with Alaskan Ventures

     Lee Cadden, Mike Smith, John Dow, Daniel "Turtle" Dorrough, Eric Bertolotti, and Jacob Blake stepped off the plane filled with excitement at the week ahead.  All were Auburn University grads in 2011 and beginning the next chapter of their lives with a bang.  It was 95 degrees when they departed from Atlanta and a cool 55 degrees when they touched down in Anchorage.   We loaded the van and headed south to the Kenai Peninsula.
     The Kenai is called "Alaska's Playground" for good reason.  It is loaded with rivers, fish and beautiful mountains--most with no trails and rarely explored.  Our planned destination was the unnamed mountains south of Skilak Lake but we soon had to change our plans due to weather.  Alaska is still untamed for a reason, and the weather is probably the biggest factor.  The wind started gusting 40 mph and the lake was impossible to navigate safely.  We quickly adjusted our plans and decided on the  Cooper Mountains located in Chugach National Forest.  These mountains are surrounded by the famed Russian Lakes on the western slopes and Cooper Lake on the eastern border.

Trailblazing through thick Alder bushes!! Fun!!

      After arriving at the trail head we loaded our packs and forged eagerly ahead.  The weather was amazing and the scenery even better.  Our first night was spent on the lower Russian Lake about 5 miles in.  We set up camp and ate a hearty dinner.  Around the fire that evening, we caught a glimpse of a black bear foraging for food along the shore directly across from our camp.  He was jet black and beautiful. The guys knew then they were a long way from home.  "What are the chances of that bear eating me in my tent tonight?" asked Eric, as he slipped in his tent for the night.  I chuckled and knew they were all wondering the same thing.   
      Day two we all awoke in one piece, and pushed hard up the trail traveling 13 miles to the northern end of the upper Russian Lake.  On the way we spotted a brown bear high on the ridge above us.  The old bruin was working his way along the slope foraging for grubs and new shoots of grass, anything to hold him over until the salmon arrive.  The weather was amazing and we all began looking upwards to the snowy peaks awaiting our attempt.   The trail was good but our packs were heavy and we were beat!  We quickly ate dinner and climbed wearily into our bags. 
      After breakfast and some time to ourselves along the banks of the beautiful Upper Russian Lake, we set out for the the mountains that loomed above.  Their serrated peaks and snow blown ridges called a challenge to us all, and we were eager to answer.  Although outwardly eager we were all secretly hesitant.  It was sunny where we stood; warm and comfortable near the trail but who knew what lay ahead in the white, windblown alpine above.  Many people travel the trail but few ever attempt the mountain.  It was our time to step off the trail and answer the call.  We were off....

Overlooking Upper Russian Lake

No trail, no path, nothing but Alders, Devils Club and deadfall Spruce....what have we done????   Mike Smith spoke sternly under his breath, "I paid him to take me here??!!!!"  I heard him but knew this was the same process we all go through as we face any challenge.  The excitement comes first, then the hard work, self doubt, and finally, if we persevere, the elated feeling of accomplishment.  This trip, this mountain was no different and I knew it.

      "Come on guys..we've got this",  I yelled loudly!  The going was tough and rough.  We helped each other over the fallen trees, up the steep creek embankments and over swift running water longing to hit tree line which seemed an eternity away.  Five straight hours we forged on a route possibly never before traveled by man.  Signs of bear and moose were everywhere. We were obviously in their home.  and made plenty of noise to let our presence be known.
     I was secretly surprised at how well these "Alabama" boys were doing.  We have all sorts of people tell us they are up for the challenge that Alaska offers but few handle it as well as these men did.  They were tired and sweaty but they wanted more.  They were eating up the mountain with their feet ready for whatever lay ahead.  I was proud of them and encouraged them on!

Trekking across snowfield in Kenai Mountains

       After punching through our last set of alders we finally made it above treeline.  "Where is camp?" Turtle asked.  "It is wherever we find a flat area for our tents," I replied.  I saw a promising spot 3/4 up the mountain but a large snow bank separated us and we would have to cross.   Strapping on our snowshoes we slowly made our way across one by one.  The slope beneath our feet was steep and the going was slow.  At the end of the trip Jacob Blake commented that on that slope he thought he would die!  We all laughed as did he. We slowly edged our way up and over the wind swept ridge to our camp site for the night.  It was a deep snow bank held up by low growing spruce on the western slope. 
     Snow is by far the best base for laying a tent.  It is dry, always flat and firm.  For these Alabama boys this was all a new experience. For them, camping in the snow was like camping on the moon!  They adapted quickly and we soon were all asleep resting our weary muscles.
     We had a hard day but we had made it above treeline and into the Alpine country.  The guys had battled the Alders and steep slopes and made it!  They did well and we all felt proud!  The view was reward enough for our efforts but the peak continued to call.....   to be continued!
read "Part 2" here

If you are interested in the Senior Trip or other trips we offer check us out @ www.AlaskanVentures.com

Review: Mountain Hardwear Brono Jacket

Sporting the Brono Jacket while hiking in Alaska

    I purchased the Mountain Hardwear Brono jacket to accompany me on windy days in the field.  It was the highest end Mountain Hardwear softshell I could find so I expected alot.
    Upon its arrival I was somewhat disappointed with how light the jacket was.  I had expected a little more insulation. It instantly reminded me of my old MH Link jacket.  Besides being a softshell it is identical to the Link.  The saving grace for this jacket is the Gore Windstopper liner.  Without this the jacket would be worthless for everything besides playing catch with your kid in the back yard.

There are several pros of this jacket:
1. The wrist liners prevent wind from traveling up your sleeve and heat from escaping.
2. The jacket stretches very nicely so you never get bound up when reaching for a rock or root to climb.
3. The front pocket with zipper access is nice and large for carrying plenty of goodies.
4. Obviously the Gore Winstopper shell!!  Thats a given!

A couple of cons I must mention:
1. The inner pockets are simply a piece of fabric sewn in.  They do not have a velcro or zipper for closure!!!! I don't understand this at all!!  Unless you don't care about losing your gear I wouldn't put anything into these pockets.

2. I would have loved to see this jacket with pit zips!
 
3. The large jacket is not fitted correctly for my body,  5'10" 175lbs, making me look a little chubby around the waist.  It seems they made this coat to fit fat climbers too!!!  Way to go Mountain Hardwear for making a one size fits all jacket!!!   Cinching up the bottom does help for a bit but due to its length it rides up to your waist and balloons out.  I went to REI and tried on a medium but it was way to small in the shoulders and sleeves.   Guess it will have to do. 
  Overall I like the jacket.  I have used it now for almost a year with over 90 days in the field.  It has held up great and is a great mid layer on cold days.  At $215 the jacket is on the upper end of soft shells and worth it if you plan on using it in the field.  If you are a weekender or want a run around town coat you might want to save your money.

Alaskan Ventures specializes in custom Alaska Backcountry Adventures.....and testing out the coolest gear!.  Check us out at www.AlaskanVentures.com

The Pre Season Workout

Every year at the end of the season I promise myself I will maintain the physic obtained by several months of hiking Alaska's backcountry. Although this is my intention, and a good one, I usually don't make it past Christmas. Most people resolve to change in January at the new year but I find this hard due to lack of motivation and -20 degree weather. I have always been the kind that needs the carrot dangled in front to urge me on.

Beginning in April, when the birds start chirping and the days are longer than 6 hours, my mind starts wandering to the upcoming year. I remember the long 20+ mile hikes and almost vertical peaks that will hurt you if your not ready. I remember the all day paddle trips with my arms aching after 12 hours. My carrot starts to grow and along with it my motivation.

I began this years training on April 1st. I knew that due to arthritis in my knee and my non exerting lifestyle for 5 months, I needed to start slow.

Week one:

8Am: Elliptical trainer 20-30min

8:30-9: Small weights with high repetition. Bench press, curls, latt pull down, leg curls, tricep pull-down, butterfly etc...

Week two:

8Am: Elliptical trainer 30 min

8:30: Run on treadmill 10 min @ 6speed

8:45: Medium weights 12-15 reps. Bench press, curls, latt pull down, leg curls, tricep pull-down, butterfly etc...

Week three:

8Am: Elliptical trainer 10 min

8:10: Start of hardcore treadmill routine. Start @ 6 speed/6 incline for 2min. Rest 1 min. Start again @ 7 speed/7 incline 1 min. Rest 1 min. Continue to 10 speed/10 incline for 1 min. Note: I had to work up to 10speed/10 incline. The first day I made it to 10speed/8 incline. By end of week I was finishing whole routine

8:30ish: Heavy weights with 6-8 reps.

Week four:

8Am: Elliptical trainer 20 min

8:10: Resume treadmill routine with added time. 6/6 for 5 min. 7/7 for 3 min. 8/8 for 2min and 9/9 -10/10 1 min.

8:30ish: Back to low weight and high reps.

This workout is very effective in preparing me for my guide season.  If you are planning a trip with us this summer this workout should be started at least one month prior to your trip.  Of course no workout will prepare me totally for what Alaska can dish out but it is always a helpful to be ahead of the game.

The workout is coupled with my diet which is coming in the next post.

Review: Sevylor Colorado Canoe

This is a review for the Sevylor Colorado Canoe:

These little, packable boats absolutely rock!!! We use them extensively on almost all of our excursions. Tough, durable, extremely stable, lightweight, compact, comfortable....what else can we say!!!

Visit our new lodge in Lake Clark National Park.

We first starting using the inflatable canoe in 2007 and haven't looked back. Most of our destinations require bush plane transportation and a hard bottom canoe is out of the question. We have experimented with the foldable canoes and kayaks but were not super impressed. We needed a lightweight, compact boat able to carry at least two people and tons of gear. We purchased one boat the first year and really didn't have much hope considering the cost. We were very surprised with the quality and durability but the proof was in the the pudding. We made it a point to abuse the little boat to find all its faults. We rammed it into jagged rocks going full boar down class 3 water. We drug it over trees, rocks and beaver dams. We loaded it down with three people and a few packs(on a still lake) up to 550lbs. On the river it comfortably held two people and 120lbs of gear. We used the provided tie down loops cranking them to the max and they never gave way or ripped.  The seating in these boats are also a plus. With an elevated, inflated bladder the paddler sits 3 or 4 inches above the bottom of the boat. The seats are fully adjustable and very comfortable. We had a 36 mile lake paddle this year and spent many 2-3 hour sessions without having to get out to stretch.

The boat is separated into three main bladders. The two side tubes are regulated by the tried and true, one way boston valve. They are very easy to

Gathering Wood For The Fire

 inflate and deflate. The floor and seat compartments are regulated by a cheap rubber valve sorta like the ones on your kids floaties.....more on this later. The side tubes and floor are covered with a tough denier type material that is bullet proof. The underside of the boat is covered with a tough fabric coated rubber. This part of the boat is also extremely durable. We have floated many a shallow river where the boats dragged bottom for several hours and all with no holes worn. We did catch a piece of glass on a portage which ripped a huge hole in both the bottom and the bladder. However, with two compartments still inflated we were able to make the rest of the river. On our return to camp we promptly patched, sewed and glued the hole.....out the next day. The floor of the boat sits above the bottom of the boat by 4 or so inches. There is a gap between the floor and side tube that catches any water that may splash in the boat. You can have a couple gallons of water in the boat and not even get wet....a HUGE plus. The back of the boat has a plug which enables quick drainage.

Now the bad..........

First, the cheap rubber valves in the floor and seats we mentioned earlier. Why on earth would you build a great boat and then almost jeopardize the whole thing with a .20 cent valve were it matters most? They are extremely hard to get air into and of course the self closing feature doesn't allow air out unless squeezed. When these valves are pushed down they are a pain to get out for deflating. We usually have to use our leatherman pliers to dislodge them which sometimes ends in ripping the cap off the valve. We have two boats with ripped off valve caps. Sevylor makes a repair kit for the valves but the new caps really don't fit very tight and there is always a small amount of air leaking out. Good grief, Sevylor, charge us $10 more and finish strong by adding the proper valves. Although a pain its not a deal breaker for us. We alway carry the after market repair kit on every float.

Secondly, the plug on the back that empties any water is always getting stuck. It literally takes two people, one with pliers, to pull it. Good thought but bad design.

Lastly, the inner bladders on the whole boat could be of a little better quality. The outside denier cover is great and very protective but one look inside the zipper might cause you to doubt. We haven't had any problems so far so it is more of a concern than a problem.

Overall we give the boat two thumbs up on the cost to quality scale. If you need a boat that is extremely compact (we can fit four boats, paddles, in a life vests Piper Super Cub) reasonably lightweight, durable, capable of heavy loads and affordable than here it is.

Review: Asolo Fugitive GTX

WHY I BOUGHT THEM

I found out about Asolo, an Italian boot maker, from a good friends that lives and works as the Head Fly Fishing Guide at 4UR Ranch in Creede, Colorado. I was in need of a new pair of boots and hadn’t made up my mind as to whether i would stick with the trustworthy old Vasque’s I had known and loved for years with another pair or if I would venture in to the unknown. After some conversations with my buddy about the pros and cons to the Asolo’s he owned, I figured if they were good enough to live and work in at 9,000+ feet in the San Juan Range of southwest Colorado that they would undoubtedly perform well for me as well.
   So, I came back from that trip to Colorado on a mission: to find the boot that was right for me. We were living in Nashville at the time, so with a quick trip to the Brentwood REI, the Asolo Fugitive GTX’s were on my feet. Here are my thoughts after owning them for 3 years…

   WHY I LIKE THEM

I bought these boots in the fall of 2007, and just after three years of owning them and countless trips in them (whether day hikes or backpacking trips), I can honestly say that I love these boots. My previous pair of boots were the classic Vasque Sundowner…all leather…no bells and whistles. They are essentially the same design today as they were back in the 70s. They are classic, and I still own and love them. However, I wanted a boot that was a bit beefier, which may be the first draw back for some hikers. They weigh in over three pounds (for the pair), which may not seem like much, but that is 30% heavier than Sundowners I already owned.
    The soles and toe guards protect your feet from stumped toes and from wear and tear on both the boots themselves and your feet. Combine tough soles and hard rubber toe boxes with a stiff split-grain leather lower section, and you’ve got an amazing platform protecting two of your most precious commodities on the trail. The upper part of the boot is made almost entirely of tough nylon with increased fabric layering around the ankle… providing for the support I was looking for in a boot. Lets be honest, it doesn’t matter how sure footed you are…we all roll an ankle from time to time, and these guys have built in ankle braces.
   The Fugitive GTXs are water shedding machines. The Gore-Tex liner works wonders and the nylon outer layer is quick drying. Wet feet are killers on the trail and I haven’t had a single case of trench foot since I started hiking in these bad boys. The tongue is sewn in seamlessly with the rest of the boot in order to prevent any leak points. So whether its puddles, creek crossings, or a downpour of rain…these guys will keep you dry.
The uppermost part of the boot back and the tongue flap have a nylon mesh fabric on them that are both quick drying and highly breathable…which is great when you sweat as much as I do.

THINGS I WOULD CHANGE

   Truthfully, the only thing I would change about these boots is their factory insoles. I guess Italians have hobbit feet and/or they are incredibly flat footed (sorry for the broad generalization there). These are an easy, and pretty inexpensive way to provide a little better cushioning for the feet. I would especially recommend this switch if you have high arches. Personally, i use the High Volume Superfeet green insoles. You can usually find these at any local outdoor retailer.

OVERALL

My favorite part about these boots is that they are just downright tough. I have put them through everything from two days of rain and muddy trails in Alabama to rocky summit scrambles in Colorado at 14,000 feet and they haven’t let up yet; and they show no signs of needing a replacement anytime soon.

    If you want to pick up a pair of your own, I say you stop at your local outdoor store and support a small business. If that’s not an option, or you simply don’t have a decent store in your area, you can buy them online from REI.com. For me, they were true to size and the same as all my other shoes (they come in a Wide option if you have boxy feet). If you’re in the market for new boots, I hope this helps a little bit. I love these boots and I think you will too.

By Lee Cadden

Alaskan Ventures specializes in custom Alaska Backcountry Adventures.  Check us out at www.AlaskanVentures.com  

Smith Family Trip 2010 part ll ( Lake Clark National Park )

Base Camping On The East End Of Lake Kontrashibuna In Lake Clark National Park, Alaska

  The morning of the fourth day, after resting the previous day, we set out for our destination.  Gladiator basin is a unique jewel nestled in the center of Lake Clark National Park.  It comprises a mountain box  canyon with with a stunning glacial fed the stream that flows directly down the middle.  Flowing right over the edge of the basin almost 2000 vertical feet, the stream collides into Lake Konstrashibuna.
  The hike just to the edge of the basin is not for the faint at heart!  A mere game trail carved out by thousands of years of animal use is our path.  Ascending the 2000ft game trail is grueling at times and stunningly beautiful at others.  The route parallels the many breathtaking waterfalls that guide the river to its destination below.  Up and over high mountain steps, through thick alders outcroppings and over ancient rock slides this narrow trail is the only way in or out of this magnificent canyon.

Crossing the 40 degree Gladiator Creek

   After a quick pep talk and a redistribution of weight in our packs, we headed out.  Crossing the Gladiator creek, below the canyon, was our first challenge.  Chris and Renee rolled up their pants and toughed it out.  The stream was swift and barely 40 degrees.  I threw on my Cloudveil waders and ferried the girls across on my back.  One slip and it would have been a cold bath but we all made it.  Finding the game trail that leads into the canyon was a must and we followed the stream up veering east to find the trail head.  After finding the trail and ascending the first 300 feet we stopped for a breather.  I sized up the group and their ability and everyone seemed okay to continue.  We all ate a granola bar before saddling our packs and headed up.  With inclines up to 45 degrees we sometimes held on to any root or rock we could find.  Working together we help each other over fallen trees, under deadfalls, and through alder thickets.  Always crying out "hey bear", we didn't want to run into any animals on this tight, closed in trail.  Most attacks by bears or moose happen when hikers surprise the animals at close proximity.  Singing, as the girls did often, or yelling "hey bear" every so often is a small price to pay for safety.  In the 11 years of my guiding experience I have yet to encounter an animal on the trail when using this tactic.  These bears are not blood thirsty killers.  On the contrary, they mostly eat plants and want nothing to do with humans. 
    At each break we found ourselves munching on watermelon berries and high bush cranberries.  The alpine flora in late june is very lush and green.  This makes the views amazing but the hiking challenging.  At one particular break we could hear a deep roar not far from where we rested.  Sneaking through the bushes towards the mighty sound we were all rewarded with an amazing view of the river falling some 400 feet below.  We all wondered just how many people had ever seen this falls before us.  It was so remote and so beautiful!!!   If this were in the lower forty eight it would be a landmark with a road paved to it.   Not here....it was still wild and untouched!!!

Hiking up to Gladiator Basin in Lake Clark National Park

 We pushed through the challenging mountain trail all the way to the top.  When we finally broke through above tree line we were exhausted and ready for camp.  Peaking back down the mountain where we had come, a sense of pride filled us all.  Although we where close to our destination we still had another 1/2 mile to reach our camp site.  The girls, Rayne and Autumn, both carrying 20lbs packs were at their limits.

"Mighty mouse", Autumn's trail name, told me she had had enough.  I told her to take one step at a time and follow my lead.  This trip is difficult for even the toughest person not to mention an 11 and 13 year old.  I was amazed and encouraged by their persevering spirits.  I have had grown men cry on less intense trips.

   As we pushed on to our camp site I was growing concerned about the dark, ominous clouds that had swept in from the west.  "Chris", I exclaimed, "we have to find a camp spot NOW or this storm is going to get us".  Chris agreed and we all picked up the pace in hopes of beating the storm.

Yummy! Blueberry Cheesecake

We finally made it to our camp site and quickly set up our North Face tents and boiled water for our Mountain house meals.  After some hot food and fresh water we all began feeling better.  The thunderstorm came over us a few minutes later and we all ran to our  tents for shelter.  The weather went from calm blue skies to 50mph winds and lighting within a few minutes.  It blew and roared for 15minutes and just as quickly as it cam it was gone.  We climbed out of our tents and finished the night eating blueberry cheesecake and hot tea.  It was a great day to say the least! 

Hiking in Gladiator Basin, Alaska

    The following morning we awoke to thick fog and slight drizzle.  I whipped up breakfast and coffee, broke down the tents and we headed down.  We had planned to explore the basin for two days but the weather was settling in and hiking in it was not desirable  We made it to the original camp site 7 hours later.

Feeling pretty good as we rolled into our base camp on the lake, we loaded up all of our gear and set out for the first leg of our return.  We paddled until 12:30am before stopping for the night.  We all slept very well as tired muscles make for great sleep.  The next day we paddled 14 miles back to the headwaters above Tanalian falls.  Over the campfire we reminisced over the past week.  From the challenges, to the victories, to the laughs and the stresses the memories brought back a great feeling of accomplishment for us all.

Click For Larger View

   A special thanks to the Smith family and their willingness to step out of the box for their Alaska vacation.  I hope it meant as much to you as it did us!  See you next year!

Here is a map of our location.  Lake Clark National Park comprises over 4 million acres of pristine untouched beauty far from any road or city.  

If you are interested taking a similar journey with your family or group please check us out at
http://AlaskanVentures.com

By: Peter Goodwin

Smith Family Trip 2010 part l (Lake Clark National Park)

Lake Kontrashibuna in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska

    "What are we doing up here?" the family must have asked themselves.  A thunderstorm was rolling over us and the wind was starting to howl.  Since crossing the river in the valley below over 5 hours prior, we hadn't had a refill of water and thirst was knocking at the door.  The trail had been rough and steep with inclines up to 45 degrees.  "Chris," I exclaimed, "we have to find a camp spot NOW or this storm is going to get us."
  
   This journey began when Chris Smith called me 6 months earlier......."So, what you are telling me is that you want your family to experience the 'Real' Alaska.  You want to hike mountains, kayak lakes, and camp in the backcountry?"  "Yes," Chris answered, "that's right!"  "How much experience do you have backpacking and camping?" I asked.  "None" he answered.  "Now Peter, we want the real experience; we want to be challenged!"  "Okay" I replied, "Lets do it".
    

Hiking towards Lake Kontrashibuna

     Chris and Renee Smith with their daughters Rayne and Autumn ("Mighty mouse") arrived on June 20th fresh from Tampa, Florida.  They looked more suited for a trip to the mall than an excursion into the Alaskan bush.  I was concerned that they may not know what they were in for.  Spending 7 days in the backcountry is not exactly comparable to a day hike in your local state park.  However, my concerns would soon be dismissed as I learned who this amazing family was and their capabilities together.  

Fishing at Tanalian Falls in Lake Clark National Park

   The following morning we checked our gear and started the hike to the lower end of Lake Kontrashibuna.  Stopping at the famed Tanalian Falls for lunch, the Smiths had their first taste of fly fishing.  After eating and landing a few arctic grayling we pushed on.  Heading east, we bush whacked our way along the lake where our sevylor inflatable canoes were stashed.  We hopped into boats and paddled 4 miles to our first camp site on a small peninsula along the lake shore.  After setting up the camp we dined on hamburger wraps, potatoes fries and hot chocolate.  We ended the night reeling in 5 nice lake trout while enjoying the campfire the girls had made. 
  

Paddling towards Gladiator Basin in Lake Clark National Park

    Day two and three were spent paddling and fishing the 18 mile long Lake Kontrashibuna.  Beauty is a dull word to describe this place!!!  The rugged Chigmit mountains rise straight out of the lake and end as rocky, jagged peaks high above.   The water, draining from the rugged peaks above, is as clear as any water in the Bahamas or Hawaii....a bit colder though.  The native Lake Trout and Dolly Varden are always eager to rush the lures as we attempted to catch our lunch each day.  To say the least, this place is heavenly and untouched by man. 

 As we arrived at the end of the lake and the trail head into Gladiator, we were enveloped in a windstorm that brought white capped waves into our small, struggling boats.  We decided to link our canoes together length ways since Renee and Autumn were unable to paddle against the winds' force.  After 1 hour of extreme paddling into the wind we limped onto our camp shore.  Tired and physically beat, we set up our tents and crashed.  I reflected that night on our journey so far and one thing stood out to me.  The Smith family had exceeded all my expectations to this point.  The  girls, especially, were mentally tough and full of vigor.  Never did I hear them complain or whine!  They had all done well so far but I knew the real test would come in the days to come.

Resting after long paddle in huge wind storm

"Air Mail" literally.  The best chocolate chip cookies ever!

The following day was spent recouping from our paddle, drying out our gear and lounging around the camp fire.  That evening we hiked out of camp to scout out our trail for the next day into the much anticipated Gladiator basin.  As we returned from the scouting trip we had a surprise.  A plane had slowly flown in and was circling our camp.  We all watched the plane for a bit before I informed the Smith's what was going on.   Before we left on our excursion I had made arrangements with  Jeremy Davis and my wife, Katie, to air drop us  fresh baked chocolate chip cookies.  The plane circled twice and slowed down to 40mph and some 30 feet high before dropping the bag of goodies.  Katie was in the back of the plane waving frantically!!!  It was great to see them and even better eating the freshly baked cookies!!!! (you can see the black bag being dropped from the plane if you look close)
 What a few days it had been and the best was yet to come!
                      to be continued........

If you are interested in taking a similar trip to the backcountry of Alaska please check our many trips at http://AlaskanVentures.com

Review: The North Face Big Fat Frog

Camping in Lake Clark National Park

In the market for a good tent? This one has got you and your gear covered.

The tent testing ground: Alaska.

Living year-round in this rugged and unforgiving land, I am a little biased. I don't really think it's too much of a boast to say that the hiking and camping in Alaska will put nearly any product to the test--- but especially a tent. In the high alpine country of Alaska, it rains with regularity and the terrain demands easy portability. In fact, the rain makes a tent with no storage really quite worthless. You end up having to pack a tarp to put all your gear under.  It makes it a giant pain if you actually want to get to your gear in a downpour. With this in mind, I have been on the lookout for a tent that had a large enough vestibule to store two packs comfortably and, if needed, do some light cooking within.

Here is our new lodge in Lake Clark National Park

 

Winter Camping with North Face Big Fat Frog -12degrees

   I already own a North Face Tadpole Tent and have been pleased with its durability and quick set up. I love it as a roomy one-man but it's pretty small for two, especially with gear. So with my affinity for my Tadpole, I decided to purchase two North Face Big Fat Frog tents. Our first adventure using these tents was an our Kontrashibuna/Gladiator Basin in Lake Clark National Park  with a family of four. We used them for camping eight days straight on everything from the rocky backcountry and river sand bars to the thick, black spruce forests. I was very impressed!!! These tents weigh just a little more than the Tadpole, at 5 pounds, but the extra square footage makes well it worth it. The 14.5 sq ft. of vestibule space was a huge advantage on this trip. It rained hard several nights and all of our packs and boots stayed dry.

Also, we were able to test out the tents' wind durability and set-up time. While, on the top of

Gladiator Basin, a squall moved in out of nowhere. The Fat Frogs set up in a flash--- around 3.5

minutes with two people. We jumped in our tents and braced ourselves for the worst. The wind quickly picked up and blew with gusts up 40-50 mph! These little tents held up great. We found the key was positioning the foot of the tent into the wind.

  We used them all season and overall they held up great.  We even took them on a winter expedition we attempted in January.  The temperature was brutally cold and the wind blasted us at high speeds.  I was concerned the moisture build up would be considerable as is the case with most winter camping.  I intentionally staked the side flaps out wide and it did the trick.  When we awoke each morning there was virtually no ice on the tent walls.  The main tent body is 100% mesh except for the floor.  This allows all moisture to pass through to the underside of the rain fly.  As it travels through the gap between the mesh and the fly a lot of the moisture is whisked away by air flow coming through the tent. It is a great design and dramatically cuts down on moisture build up.  NOTE:  I would not recommend using the Big Fat Frog if you think it may snow.  It is definitely not a four season tent able to handle snow loads.

Here are the Big Fat Frogs with a North Face Tadpole in background

As far as features go there are several we want to point out..... seven, to be exact. First, there is enough room in the vestibule to do some cooking. It's great for a simple dinner using a jet boil or to prepare sandwiches.  Second, is the fact that its completely mesh, as mentioned earlier.  This is great on sunny afternoons when the bugs prevent a nap in the open. Third, the internal storage is actually pretty good. There are 5 pockets for catching all your goodies from flashlights to journals. Fourth, at the foot, there is a raised air vent that funnels air through the tent eliminating most condensation. Fifth, the opening to the mesh tent is almost a 360 degree zipper allowing unhindered access in and out. Sixth, all of the poles and clips are color-coded for easy placement. Seventh and finally,we highly recommend the footprints for this tent. Footprints are custom-fitted ground covering that go under the bottom of the tent. They protect your investment for years to come and weigh next to nothing.  After a whole season the bottoms of both Big Fat Frogs looked brand new!

Are there downsides to the North Face Fat Frog? Just a few..... The stakes that come along

with the tent are a joke. They are very cheap and bend easily. So, definitely purchase after

market stakes. Secondly, the carry sack for this tent is oversized. You can roll this

tent to a pretty small size which helps with your bulk. However, when you stuff into

sack it expands and becomes bulkier than it needs to be. The roof of the tent towards the back has little to no slope.  During a downpour this last summer I noticed that there was standing water pooling on top.  I quickly tightened the rain fly which helped but not completely.  The waterproof material kept the rain out but it is only a matter of time before the water will breakdown the waterproof treatment.  Again, we did not get wet but keep this in mind and treat your tent every year.   Lastly, the poles on this tent breakdown to a length of 22” . This makes the tent longer than desired when backpacking through thick brush. In my opinion they should have shortened the breakdown length of the poles for easier transport.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Overall I give the North Face Fat Frog tent a 3.5 out of 5 and would recommend it to anyone that loves a little extra room for gear or cooking. It is a little heavy for long backpacking trips but great for short 3 dayers or canoeing trips. We used it pretty hard this year and it held up well. Happy Camping!

Here is a quick video on setting up the tent...........

If you are interested in exploring Alaska's true backcountry then check us out.  www.AlaskanVentures.com 

Dick Proenneke and the Twin Lakes of Alaska

Dick Proenneke in Alaska

Dick Proenneke is famed for living off the land  in remote Alaska for more than 40 years.  He was a true outdoorsman and conservationist.  He chose to live in one of the most beautiful places in Alaska-- the Twin Lakes region.  It is located inside Lake Clark National Park, southwest of Anchorage.  He built his cabin by hand and lived off the land almost entirely.  My family all had the pleasure of knowing Dick while he lived here in Alaska, and in fact, they used to fly supplies to him on the lakes.  Below is a short video of his first year in the "bush".  If you have ever dreamed of escaping the concrete jungle and living in a peaceful mountainous vista, then you have to watch this video.  Not that any of us will ever take it to this extreme, but it is an inspiring video to say the least.  

   Most of our trips take place in the backcountry of Lake Clark National Park, including a trip to the Twin Lakes.  The footage in the video shows the amazing mountains, wildlife and of course the pristine Twin Lakes.   Dick's cabin still stands today and visiting it while exploring the surrounding landscape is a cherry on top of an amazing trip.  The video to the right is a couple who came to explore Twin Lakes and see Dick's cabin with us this summer.

If you are interested in finding more info on the Twin Lakes region and exploring this amazing land check us out at http://AlaskanVentures.com/.  
Below are a few pictures from our past trips exploring the Twin Lakes region.

Hiking to Low Pass.  Twin Lakes and Emmerson creek in background.

Hiking in Emmerson Pass on our way to Twin Lakes

Hiking in Twin Lakes country Alaska

Paddling on the Upper Twin

Paddling the Lower Twin Lakes Alaska

Turquoise mountain pass on our way to Twin Lakes

Review: Vibram Five Fingers Trek Sport (First Impression)

 At Alaskan Ventures we like to review our gear in two stages.  First, when we purchase the gear we will write a "first impression" on the apparent quality and design.  Secondly, after a season of use we will write our follow up review on the actual performance.  Enjoy.....

 Okay, I finally broke down and bought a pair.  I made fun of them when they first came out, but like most things they grew on me! I was working out with my brother-in-law the other day and he brought out the new "Vibram Five Fingers Trek Sport" from his gym bag.  I couldn't take my eyes off of them!  He had the new Trek Sport which is super rugged and has a great traction sole.  I used my "REI" gift card and bought my own just two days later.
   First impression....LOVE EM'.  I didn't take them off for two straight days! My wife made me take them off before I got into bed only after I put up a fight!  I wanted to spend a lot of  time in them just to see if any sore spots developed.  No sores after two days of inside use--just pure comfort.  I wore them to the grocery store, and the way people were staring at my feet they must have thought I had major frost bite. 
Everyone asks, "Is it weird having something in between your toes?"  I have to say it feels quite normal and comfortable.  Something I really like is the thick, aggressive sole that seems to guard my feet well and provide excellent traction. They also have a 4mm raised arch which gives you added support--I like this a lot!
    I was anxious to try them outside and convinced myself that they must be insulated with some amazing state-of-the-art fabric.  I ventured outside in -5 degree weather and 12inches of snow, and unfortunately found out they would not be replacing my winter Pac boots.    So they have their limits...

For now they will have to be my gym shoes until spring comes and I can hit the trails. Overall, they seem to be of great quality and design!   I will keep you posted on how they perform this upcoming season!!


Update:
  It was a warm 25 degrees the other day, so I just had to try them out!  I ran in them for 3 miles and they felt great.  I could feel the previously unused muscles in my calves really working hard.  They felt very natural--almost like I was a kid again running around outside without shoes.  I do have to admit that I couldn't feel my toes when I returned home and re-warming them was very painful! Once again I conclude that these will not be my winter running shoes.

    Stay tuned for my second impression!

   

At Home In the Wild

While guiding in the backcountry our senses are always on alert for Alaska's wildlife. Bears come to mind when I think of dangerous animals but moose can be just as dangerous. During the off season my wife and I reside in Soldotna, Alaska. It is a small town with a population of around 15,000. Our awareness tends to fade as we settle into our routine throughout the winter. However, just when we think things are safe and normal we are reminded that we live in the wildest place on earth!!!!

 
   Peter and Katie Goodwin own and operate  Alaskan Ventures.

Winter Camping/Hiking in Alaska

   Hello from the cold land!  A few weeks a good friend of mine, John Castenholz,  and I decided we needed a cure for our cabin fever!  When the days are only 6 hours long and the temps dip beneath 0 often it is very tempting to stay in your house ALL winter.  When John called and asked I was pumped.  I had never done any winter excursions and knew it took a different skill set to survive.  The last thing I wanted was to head out on my own and lose an arm to frostbite.  John has lived in Alaska for 18 years and is a very experienced mountaineer and outdoorsman.  His resume of adventure includes several of the highest peaks in the lower forty eight as well as ice climbing and big wall climbing El Capitan.  To say the least he would be guiding me on this one!

We headed up the trail and made pretty good time until we hit the lower Fuller Lake.  At this point the snow was 6-12" deep but at the lake it was 24" and very dry.  We stopped middle way down the lake and had lunch!  I had several left over Mountain House meals from our adventure trips last summer and took one out of my bag.  John, too, had a few Mountain House(MH) meals from the "past".  After careful inspection I commented to John that I had never seen a MH package look like this one did.  He casually and softly mentioned that these may be from some of his early excursions......in the early 1990's!!!!!!  Opening the package, we both noticed the funny smell.  I tested the meal only after John promised me he would carry me off the mountain if I became ill.  When your cold anything warm is accepted as possibly edible and this 20 year old "chicken and rice" was no different.  Although stale as a pile of heated, decaying leaves is felt good to eat!
    After our meal we hit the snow covered trial and made our way slowly up the mountain!  After struggling through several 5ft snow drifts on a 40degree angle, we made it to our first camping spot.  It was 11pm and we were exhausted!
The next two full days of travel were intense.  I nearly died once....slipped and skidded down an icy slope before endoing and landing on my head. Overall it was a great trip and the weather was beutiful!  Watch the video and see our journey and the beauty we had stumbled into!
 If you are interested in taking your adventures to the next level check our website and take the plunge!
http://AlaskanVentures.com