Fishing and Alaska Adventure with Philip Rivers and the Chargers! Part 2

View Part 1 HERE

After plunging through the large rapids and reeling in huge fish for three days, I was excited to introduce another encounter in wild Alaska. We took a floatplane to a remote lodge near Denali National Park for the remaining two nights of the trip. The lodge, five miles south of the park, is set in one of the most picturesque settings Alaska has to offer. Towering
mountain peaks jut up from glacier blue lake far away from any road or civilization.
The lodge sits at the south end of the lake with views of the tallest peaks in
Alaska. Even in the middle of summer these mountain peaks are snow covered and
hold the allure of untamed frontier. We arrived at the lodge via floatplane and were
immediately met with refreshments and a hot shower! Oh it felt good. Our night
ended with leisurely sipping wine and reminiscing about our river conquest.


Over a hearty breakfast the next morning, I gave the Charger crew two options for
the day’s adventure. First, boat the lake and fish for lake trout or tackle one of the
daunting peaks that stands guard over at the north end of the lake. Nick was the first one to
chime in by saying, “I didn’t come here to relax,  I want to take on that mountain!” I
laughed inside at Nicks go get ’em attitude. Once he threw that challenge out, the
rest of the crew was bound by the venture.
“That mountain doesn’t have a chance,” I heard one of them boldly announce as we stepped outside. Another shot back a witty dare and the smack talk began. The climb looked attainable from the lodge , but I knew as we boated toward the massive giants that the talking would turn to silence. 

“I don’t. Think. I. Can. Make. It,” gasped Deilman, “I was created for short bursts
of intense energy...not this.” Philip yelled from ahead some encouragement and the
train of giants eked upward. The alder trees choked our way for the first 1000 feet
slowing our speed and added another challenge. Up and over, under and through
we made our way above tree line and stopped for a much needed breather. “WOW,
look at that view!” Clary exclaimed, “I didn’t even notice how beautiful it was as we
were climbing.”

The break was brief. Too brief. Before I knew, it Billy Volek was rallying the troops
for the final push. Upward we trudged, sidestepping through a mixture of spongy,
alpine tundra and large, boulder outcroppings. The end was in sight.
A fresh mountain stream lay ahead, and I lured the men onward by promising them
it was the purest water on earth! “If there is no stream up here I am going to kill
someone,” I heard one of them threaten from the line. “Man I sure hope that stream
is still running,” I thought to myself.





The final push led us to the stream’s source and arguably one of the most
picturesque views of the Alaska Range. The water quenched our thirst and the
views satisfied our hard work! Clary and Rivers both plunged their heads into
the 40-degree water and we all laughed as they shuttered from the brain freeze. Our
stay on the top was short lived. We soaked up the views, ate our lunch and headed
back down. We had to be back by 4pm for a special evening I had planned.

‪

Without a clue of what was in store for them, the Charger crew loaded into
a floatplane and we flew northwest over Denali National Park towards our
secret destination. We buzzed over Kahiltna Glacier and the mighty Ruth
Glacier. Westward we circled the grandfather of them all, Mount McKinley. Our
eyes were glued out the window as we admired the tallest point on our great
continent. Descending eastward we began to aim towards a small obscure glacial
lake encompassed by glaciers and serrated mountain peaks.

As our plane broke the glassy water the guys began to realize what the evening
entailed. Set up before the mighty, ancient glacier was a table skirted with a white
tablecloth, adorned with fresh flowers and lined with wine glasses. Our cooks were
just finishing the filet mignon and king crab as the men placed themselves at the
table. “I knew something was up.” Philip said, “I knew we weren’t just on a flight
seeing tour.”



We ate like kings and roaring laughter filled the glacial valley as they reminisced
on the past week of adventure. “That mountain killed me today,” I heard before the
laughter continued. What a week it had been. The trip had been the perfect mix
of conquering new adventures and time to be refreshed. They came to Alaska as
big city, football stars and left as fly-fishing, mountain men. Time in the untamed
wilderness bonded them as friends who will always remember conquering their slice Alaska.

I was proud of them all and consider it one of the best trips Alaskan Ventures has had
the privilege to lead.

Alaskan Ventures specializes in remote Adventures throughout the state of Alaska.  Backpacking, glacier tours, heli-adventures, glacial dinners, photography, fly fishing and "out of the box" tours are who we are and what we do!  Check us out at: www.AlaskanVentures.com

Fishing and Alaska Adventure with Philip Rivers and the Chargers! Part 1

Philip Rivers catching King Salmon

“Think outside the box, Peter. I don’t want the usual Alaska bear and glacier-viewing trip. Give us something exciting and rugged.” Philip Rivers told me this spring when he called wanting to bring some Charger teammates to Alaska for an epic adventure. I chuckled and told him I had the perfect river floating and fishing combo trip in mind and they’d better buckle up for the experience of their lives.

The NFL lockout was still in gridlock when Philip Rivers, Billy Volek, Kris Dielman, Jeromey Clary and Nick Hardwick from the San Diego Chargers got off the plane in Alaska on July 10th. We grabbed some lunch and got acquainted as we waited for our bush plane flight. What a great group of guys! They were obviously close friends, razzing each other constantly and excited about the upcoming venture. I briefed them on the trip, what to expect and answered questions like, “If we see a bear are we going to die? And what is the possibility of wresting the bear into submission?”…that one coming from Nick!! It was clear we were in for a week of non-stop entertainment.

Our “limo of the bush,” a De- Havilland Beaver floatplane, took off from Lake Hood flying us to a small river south of Denali National Park. I chose the river because it offers fabulous fishing and the perfect mixture of relaxation and adrenaline during a float. Our company, Alaskan Ventures, offers several levels of trips and the Premium Package seemed to be the best fit for the Chargers crew. I knew Philip wanted to "rough it," but this vast Alaskan outback was a new type of adventure for everyone. The Premium Package provides exploration of the rugged frontier in style. Camping accommodations include large walk in tents outfitted with cots, pillows, sleeping bags, pads and eye covers. For added comfort, a full crew, besides our fishing guides, set up camp, cook meals and serve clients. After a full day in the reeling in fish and rafting whitewater we dine on king crab, filet mignon, fresh sockeye salmon and finish with cocktails and fine cigars. We strive to offer rugged adventure and without sacrificing all the comforts of home.

Nick Hardwick looking GQ fishing for Salmon

As soon as we arrived on the river the guys piled out of the airplane, grabbed the fishing poles and dashed to the river’s edge. Almost immediately they started landing large King Salmon. Before the first fish was landed the smack talk began. I, personally, have never met a more competitive group of men in my life. Everything was a competition… from catching the most fish, to the biggest fish, to rowing the rafts, to hiking the mountains. They were having a blast and laughter echoed in river canyons all week long.

Kris Dielman with a nice King Salmon

The second day, the river changed from a slow, meandering current to swift Class 3+ whitewater. The guides, Dave Doucet, Andrew Weaver and I all discussed our routes and plan of attack before plunging our way through the bus sized boulders and churning rapids. The crew was eager to challenge the river’s wrath. My raft was the first to push off carrying Nick and Philip. I kept telling the guys “you know you could die today,” and they yelled back at me "quit saying that!" We all nervously laughed as we approached the first standing wave and huge boulder that divided the swift current. "Hang on," I yelled over the roar of the water that reached into the boat from all sides as its turbulent waves challenged to drag us into its swift clutches. Nick prematurely pumped his fists in triumph against the river after the first rapid… only to quickly grab the raft frame firmly as he saw the collision that was imminent.

Philip and Nick rafting

Directly in our path were two house-sized boulders, staggered by only 20 yards. The trick is to brush as closely to the boulder on the right and after passing, quickly paddle hard right to avoid the rock on the left. I have navigated this river before and this is the most challenging spot by far.

It must have been the added weight of Charger giants in my boat or maybe it was simply a mistake… but we were headed not to the left of the first boulder but STRAIGHT at it. I feverishly rowed to steer us around the rock but the fury of the current behind us pounded down. We narrowly missed a full on collision with the first rock but not without losing the grip of my right oar. At this point it was imperative to steer right to avoid the next collision, now only 30 feet away. As the river swiftly pulled us closer, I reached and grabbed the oar just in time. Adrenaline pumping, I dug in deep! Nick and Philip encouraged me by screaming, "PADDLE! PADDLE! PADDLE!" Man, those guys can really yell!! We made it through the gauntlet and all gave a loud, triumphant cheer for the victory. We had just taken on the river and WON! High fives and laughter followed as we played the events over in our minds and told our sides of the story.

Kris Dielman with an 18" rainbow

Next up for the challenge came guide, Dave Doucet, with Billy Volek and Jeromey Clary. They had a similar adventure but actually clipped the first boulder, which spun them 90 degrees and side ways towards boulder number two. We winced as we watched them ricochet off the bolder. I worried not for Dave's ability to row a raft but for the 325lb giant on board. He quickly dug in his oars and forced the boat at an unnatural pace away from the rapidly approaching rock. Sweet success.

Andrew Weaver and Kris Dielman brought up the rear of our float crew and decided on a different path altogether! After they watched us careen down the river ahead of them, they decided to head to the right of the first boulder into a barely flowing side stream clearing both boulders all together. Once they cleared, we all celebrated with bellowing laughter and slaps on the back.

After the bout of rapids, the river calmed down for a stretch, and I encouraged them to break out the fly rods. As we floated, Nick, Jeromey and Kris flung their flies behind every rock and ripple they could find. Rainbow trout and grayling were eager to snatch up the flies we offered. Philip and Billy stuck to spinner fishing but still threw out competitive remarks as we cruised down the river, vying for the best catch.

Jeromy Clary and Nick Hardwick fly fishing

At 2 pm the raindrops dimpled the water adding a whole new dimension of beauty to the glacier fed river. As fishing diminished, Philip and Nick retired their poles and asked to row the boat. Maneuvering a raft in roaring in Class 2 water with 800lbs of gear and bodies is harder than it looks but they wanted a try. Philip was first and it quickly became a “hold on for dear life” experience. “I don’t want to die today,” I threw back at Philip, giving him a hard time as he attempted to steer our raft. Every rock in the river wished they could move as Philip navigated the raft with precise accuracy directly towards them. It was really amazing how these two guys could actually hit, collide and scrape every protruding rock in their path. At first I was yelling orders to "paddle left, paddle right, back! back! BACK!" but before long I gave up and we all were bent over laughing. More than a few times Nick and Phillip had to hop out of the boat into the river to dislodge us from our stagnant position above the flowing river. As we pulled into the campsite that evening we all agreed that they should both stick with football over river guiding!

We spent the next two days floating the river and catching salmon, trout and grayling. The fishing was great and the company even better! We ate like kings, smoked fine cigars by the fire at night, swapped stories and roared with laughter.
What a few days it had been and what a few days it would BE…….to be continued.

Alaskan Ventures specializes in custom Alaska Adventures.
Check us out at www.AlaskanVentures.com

Backpacking Alaska with our College Seniors 2011 Part 2

Read "Part 1" HERE

  The morning after the grueling push above tree line we arose late and ate a well earned breakfast.  Talking it over, we decided to take the day off and rest up before the big push to the top.  We had traveled over 15 miles and the last two, nearly straight up, had done the guys in.
   We all spent the morning airing out our socks and catching up on our journaling.  After lunch a few of the guys decided to scout out our route for the following day.  It was a nice day with high clouds scattered about like enormous cotton balls overhead.  We were in the snow now and the footing was great!!  We steadily made our way up towards the craggy, snow swept peak still 1500 ft away.  It was a different world up there in the alpine in early May.  The wind was howling and sweeping the snow across the mountain side blurring visibility with blizzard like conditions.  Turning around and glancing down the mountain, it appeared to be sunny and spring like just 1/2 mile away.  We pushed on up to a wonderful vantage point and plotted our course for the following day.  From where we sat we could see the peak looming above and the whole valley flowing out below.  We picked our route and heading back to camp.
  The guys were happy to see up and anxious to hear the details of our trip.  Was is steep? dangerous? Did we think they could make it?  We jokingly told them it was very dangerous and that they would probably die but that we were going anyway!!
  That evening nestled under the Noah tarp between two snow banks we discussed the next days events with anticipation.  Sipping hot chocolate and finishing supper with warm apple cobbler we laughed and joked about how far they had come in the past four days.  From sunny, hot Alabama to sleeping in the snow and scaling an ice capped peak. 

  Early the next morning we arose, scarfed down breakfast and broke camp.  We strapped on our snowshoes and lifted our heavy packs ready for the mountains challenge.  With one last pep talk we started up!  The going was steep but the footing, a mixture of snow and alpine tundra, was excellent.
Each step put us closer to our goal and we forged ahead.  After 30 min or so we came to a bench in the mountainside around 300 yds wide and deep.  This offered us a great place to rest up and drop our packs for the remaining attempt of the summit.  The weather was changing and it appeared that a storm was closing in....perfect!  The wind began to pick up driving the snow sideways and cutting through our clothing to our core.  We didn't rest long before we had to move and warm up.  The sky was dark and we needed to make our move now or we would miss our window of opportunity.
   Grabbing water and a few cliff bars we scurried up the next steep incline through a rocky chute some 300 feet above.  Are blood was pumping now and all high with adrenaline as the wind was rolling over us with 30mph gusts.  The snow seemed to be pelting us from below as we picked our way ever higher.  I yelled from ahead to keep coming and Lee encouraged from behind.

All of the men on the trip were of great fortitude and mental capacity.  They were strong men and had overcome many obstacles in the past 5 days.  I had faith in them and was excited for them to reach their goal of the summit. 

 The wind never let up and as we pushed higher the snow gave way to ice and steeper terrain.  Leading the party, I went ahead to scout out a ledge with a 40 degree incline on one side and a 300 ft drop off on the other.  The footing was descent but there was little room for error.  Etching slowly up the wind and snow made visibility almost 0.  I began to doubt if we could make it up safely to the peak just 100 yds above.  Moving another 10yds I hit an incline of about 50 degrees that had been camouflaged by the snow.   I surveyed our options and realized there was no way with these conditions that we were going to be able to make it.  I sat there for a minute disappointed at the outcome of events.  I knew these guys wanted it terribly....I wanted it for them terribly but it wasn't going to happen!   Safety is the best success and I knew going further would compromise us all.
I yelled out to the group below that it wasn't going to happen and we needed to turn back.  They all agreed that they didn't want to die trying and they veered of across the mountain to meet me below. 

  We rendezvoused at rocky outcropping below and we made our way down picking our way through the mixture of snow and rocks.  All of a sudden we hit a snow/ice field at a 45 degree angle separating us from our packs below.  The ice field was some 400 yds across on all direcitons and the best option was straight down.  I was a little nervous because one slip we would slide all the way down.  The wind was blowing the snow such that we couldn't tell what exactly lay below.
  We kicked off our snow shoes and sat on them like a sled.  Using the crampon on the bottom we slowly slid/skid down the mountianside.  It was all fun and games until Lee, the most experienced guy bringing up the rear, slid off his snow shoe and tumbled into the group like a stack of dominoes.  He took us all out in a row and we all lost control of our "sleds".  Luckily I was able to get some footing grabbing Eric and Jacob.  Jacob and Eric in turn grabbed Mike and Turtle.  We all breathed a sigh a relief before hearing Lee yelling from below as we skidded down the mountain at what seemed like break neck speeds.  At first I thought his yells were of fear but soon realized he was yelling out of sheer enjoyment.  The clouds and snow had lifted to a point were we could see that the slope below spilled out into a nice bowl of white level snow.  Lee effectively had glacaided all the way down in 8 seconds.  We all looked at each other and laughed with relief!!  "Man, that looks like the best way down to me," yelled Mike before he dumped his snow shoe sled and let loose down the mountain.  We all laughed and followed suite.
   The day was ending soon and we needed to get down off the main mountain fast.  We found our snow covered packs, strapped our snowshoes back on and headed down.  We navigated off the mountain through a series of avalanche shoots, alders thickets and stream beds before we hit the level ground we so longed for.  We were beat and sleep came easy that night. 
   That evening I contemplated the days events.  Although I was very disappointed that we were not able to summit I remembered why Alaska holds such respect and grander in all of our eyes.  It is still untamed and unpredictable.  I love it for this reason and something in my soul NEEDS it to be this way.  Something I cannot control or tame keeps me humble and gives me perspective.  Some may look at our situation as failure but I view it as great success.  We all tested ourselves against RAW Alaska and that IS the success.

 Read more on the Senior Trip at www.AlaskanVentures.com

 

News on the Pebble Mine

As most know we are opposed strongly to the Pebble Mine project which located in our backyard.  There is too much at risk the payout temporal.  To us its a no brainer but to the politicians and others being bought off, its money in their pockets.  Here are a few facts about the mine and fisheries it would eliminate courtesy of http://www.capitalcityweekly.com.  (our comments, AV, in italic)

• How important is the seafood industry to Alaska and the nation? At a glance: 62 percent of all U.S. seafood landings come from Alaska, as does 96% of all Wild-Caught US Salmon.  Seafood is by far Alaska’s number one export, valued at nearly $2 billion (next in line: zinc and lead exports at $785 million); and Alaska ranks ninth in the world in terms of global seafood production. 

• The seafood industry provides more than 70,500 Jobs, more than oil and gas, mining, tourism and timber combined. The seafood industry is second only to Big Oil in revenues it generates to Alaska’s general fund each year. 

•  At $603 million, Alaska’s 2011 salmon catch is the third most valuable since 1975 and likely to end up at number two after final sales are reported by processors and buyers next spring. (Alaska’s most valuable salmon season was $725 million in 1988.)   

This may seem like peanuts to a mutli Billion Dollar Foreign orporation who looks at our land as corporate profits.  But the main problem is that it isn't sustainable.  They will come, rape and pillage and leave!!!  The salmon are here FOREVER if we don't screw it up....how is this even a debate???!!!!

• Biggest fish slam: The state siding with the Pebble Partnership in court to prevent Lake & Peninsula residents from voting on the Save Our Salmon initiative.  

  In our opinion, AV,  this legislation was flawed since it gave control of future development, large and small, to the General Public....meaning the citizens of the whole US....meaning lawsuits by big environmental groups.....rather than the citizens of the Lake & Peninsula borough.  The basis was good but it was way too broad

• Biggest fish snub (third year in a row): Cynthia Carroll, CEO of Anglo American/Pebble Mine who told Bristol Bay residents, “If the people don’t want the mine, we won’t build it.” 

   Okay Cynthia...WE DON'T WANT IT!!!!!  

Thanks for reading and keep up the fight.  Alaska is Beautiful and Untamed, unlike the rest of the world, so lets keep it that way!   


Support the Renewable Resource Coalition and there fight to stop the mine
http://www.renewableresourcescoalition.org/


www.AlaskanVentures.com